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forum Forum index forumTechnical section forumengine temp

Author : Topic: engine temp  Bottom
 ian
 Posts : 22
 Deck Swabber
  Posted 18/05/2009 07:25:57 PM
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been reading in the technical section and saw engine temp should be 52 to 62 my gauge reads around 90 should i be concerned, only just got boat from owner who had her 16 years and was very particular about maintenance and that was the temp he said it should be , i know the actual could differ from gauge. thanks.

 Stuart H
 Posts : 55
 Able Seaman
  Posted 19/05/2009 10:02:08 AM
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Hi Ian
I went through that myself,just to give you what I found with my 1100 xflow petrol engine, - thermostat should have stamped on its bottom rating which should be by memory 74 degrees c.
Mine was but I changed it anyway for a new one from shridan marine.
However this didnt make any difference to the running temperature the key was the spring in the water bypass - mine was squashed this then lets all the cool water bypass the block the stat will eventually open but where you are measuring it is at the other end of the block hence you get 90 degrees - mine last summer was getting to 105!!
I stretched the spring and it made a big difference - so I got a new ball, spring and bypass hose from Sheridan - about £14.00 I also drilled a small about 2.5 mm hole in the thermostat (I read this tip on the freeman web site) this lets a bit more water flow through the block - temp stays nice and low now.
Its easy to try the above if it doesnt work you may have a blockage but probably not.
Good luck.

 ian
 Posts : 22
 Deck Swabber
  Posted 19/05/2009 06:43:01 PM
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thanks, when you say the spring in the water bypass do you mean the spring on the stat what is the ball and the bypass, im ok at jobs but not touched engines for 15 years.

 Stuart H
 Posts : 55
 Able Seaman
  Posted 20/05/2009 08:45:17 AM
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I'm not sure which engine you have, but on mine the bypass valve is simply a ball held down by a spring in a small rubber hose - (3/4 dia hose about 3 inches long)which sits between a block on the end of the engine near the water pump and the thermostat housing, if the thermostat is shut the water bypasses the engine block.

 ian
 Posts : 22
 Deck Swabber
  Posted 20/05/2009 06:57:40 PM
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back to stanstead abbots over weekend il have a look, very frustrating when you just want to look at something ang got to wait.thanks

 ian
 Posts : 22
 Deck Swabber
  Posted 20/05/2009 06:59:51 PM
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back to stanstead abbots over weekend il have a look, very frustrating when you just want to look at something ang got to wait.thanks. its 1600 x flow so hope no different, do you have calorifier fitted to yours.

 No Regrets
 admin
 Posts : 315
  Posted 21/05/2009 04:09:44 PM
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Yep, the official mod is to fit that drilled Thermostat so the engine stays nearly cold.

It's less cruel than the constant hot -> cold -> hot punishment the normal car thermostat would offer on the River!

Our Sea Tiger 1600 X-flow barely registered 45 degrees on the temp gauge, but this was apparently OK.


'No Regrets' is now a beautiful Broom 30, berthed in Bray, on the River Thames. I used to own a Birchwood, honest!
 ian
 Posts : 22
 Deck Swabber
  Posted 21/05/2009 06:54:37 PM
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im a plumber ang got a calorifier to fit to my boat but not sure where to tap into with fixing kit i got two tees with 15 mm in middle so you can break into hoses and jubilee clip together with flow and return in middle was feeling hoses at weekend to determine where to cut in but was told that i should not use the tees and use tappings in the block instead, so everything about this boat is confusing me at the mo, how was yours tfitted to your crossflow, thanks.

 Seadog
 Posts : 110
 Lieutenant
 Seadog
  Posted 21/05/2009 07:55:34 PM
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Hi Ian, see the "Permission to come aboard section" for my reply

Seadog

Jesse:- A real old seadog
 Seadog
 Posts : 110
 Lieutenant
 Seadog
  Posted 21/05/2009 08:11:19 PM
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Hi Ian, I went through all the overheating problem proceedures,
drilling holes, changing stats etc.
My problems got so bad that the excessive heat boiled the  gearbox oil and knocked all the gearbox bearings out,and cracked the cylinder head!!
When we stripped the engine we found all but two of the waterways in the head and engine block  completely blocked with lime scale.
replaced head, cleared waterways and replaced all the bearings in the gearbox and touch wood the engine now runs at around 52 degrees.
The temperature has also been much better since I installed the chlorifier.

I hope this has been of help and not given you a future  pain in the Wallet
Seadog

Jesse:- A real old seadog
 ian
 Posts : 22
 Deck Swabber
  Posted 21/05/2009 08:33:45 PM
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so do i have a overheating problem and how much should i do before having engine stripped or wait to see if materialises to something bad,i think the guy i got it from was genuine he had for 16 years and was meticulous and he said it should be around 90

 Seadog
 Posts : 110
 Lieutenant
 Seadog
  Posted 25/05/2009 08:15:54 PM
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Hi Ian, This temperature problem keeps rearing it's ugly head and I suspect a lot of B.O.A.  members Have heard it all before!!!.
The Sea Tiger engine should run some where around 52'-60 degrees
The precise reading is in the hand book. (available from Sheridan
Marine)
As John, ( ex No Regrets) Has said, their boat ran at 42' and was OK.
One tip, is to check for excessive heat around the area where the double exhaust in the centre of the manifold enters the cylinderhead and for cracks in the head also the paint will be very discoloured around this area.

This is a sure sign of the waterways in the head and block
being clogged up!!.
Do keep an eye on it all
Regards
Jesse

Seadog

Jesse:- A real old seadog
 ian
 Posts : 22
 Deck Swabber
  Posted 26/05/2009 07:51:44 PM
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thanks for your advice, gonna drill out the thermostat to see if that helps.

 Stuart H
 Posts : 55
 Able Seaman
  Posted 28/05/2009 12:58:35 AM
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Ian
Another quick check for a blocked head, when you have the termostat out, is to unscrew the temerature sender - mine is on the end of the head - gearbox end this should be clear and if you pour a small amount of water in where the thermostat was water should flow out of the sender hole.
Dont forget the bypass spring point I made earlier if yours is the same as mine the spring is in the pipe under the termostat housing which you will be taking off when you drill the stat.
Good luck

 Stuart H
 Posts : 55
 Able Seaman
  Posted 28/05/2009 01:06:13 PM
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I also meant to say the bypass spring on mine is only about 5mm shorter than  the top of the bypass pipe when you have the stat housing off - with the pipe still attached at the bottom, clear as mud isnt it! it will make sense when you have it all in front of you hopefully.

 ian
 Posts : 22
 Deck Swabber
  Posted 31/05/2009 07:04:56 PM
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been talking to fitter at freeman about what to do and he said all my pipes should be 15 mm internal but some of mine are prob 25 to 30 this has all come about as i want to fit calorifier, so today run engine the water comes from the outside to the weed trap then to the impeller then to exhaust manifold ?? then it goes to the block and as it joins there is a 15 mm internal bore  just above which goes round to where the carburettor is the other larger goes to the thermostat, not touched it yet as gonna get new one and bgasket first.the smaller pipe i took into the clorifier and out to where it terminated on  below the carb, increased the pipe length by approx 1 metre, have run engine for a couple of hours cruising and no ill effects and hot water in half hour, so unless someone says i have made a major mistake. all seems good.


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